Tour of Ubud's Sacred Monkey Forest, Bali

Introduction to the Ubud Monkey Forest in Bali

Set on the downhill end of Jalan Monkey Forest in Ubud, Bali, the Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, known in English as the Sacred Ubud Monkey Forest, is a 27-acre forested plot in the village of Padangtegal. The forest’s residents are its main claim to fame: over 600 crab-eating macaques (Macaca fascicularis) who inhabit the trees and interact with visitors – sometimes to the visitor’s detriment!

The forest and its contents are held to be sacred by the residents of Padangtegal – the forest holds the village’s pura dalem, or temple of death, where the cemetery and cremation area are also located. The temple’s holiness is enhanced by presence of a holy relic in its inner sanctum.

More information on village kahyangan tiga, or three temples, in our guide to Bali’s temples.

The monkeys, far from interfering with worship in the pura dalem, actually enhance it – the macaques are believed to play an integral role to the practice of Balinese religion in the area. The village’s management of the forest includes regular feeding of the monkeys, but years of interacting with careless tourists have encouraged the monkeys to steal from unsuspecting visitors.

In the next few pages, we’ll explore the temple structures on the grounds, their historical and cultural significance, and meet the resident macaques up close. (Not too close.)

For an overview of the Balinese belief systems behind the temple, read our overview of the culture of Bali.

Getting to The Ubud Monkey Forest

Entering Ubud’s Sacred Monkey Forest only requires that you go down Jalan Monkey Forest Road; at its most southerly, downhill end (about 0.75 mile from the Ubud Royal Palace and Warung Ibu Oka), the road will take a turn east; the entrance to the forest stands at this junction.

Coordinates of Jalan Monkey Forest entrance: 8°31’3.597″S, 115°15’33.812″E; location on Google Maps

Pay IDR 20,000 (US$2) at the entrance, and proceed down the footpath to walk into the heart of the forest. The paths through the forest are paved, but the vegetation is rather lush somewhat claustrophobic. At this point, the monkeys are less seen, more heard: you can hear their chattering in the trees, and if you’re paranoid you’ll feel somewhat surrounded. Luckily as you proceed further south, you’ll encounter a clearing and the first of the Monkey Forest’s buildings.

Apart from the monkeys, the forest holds about 115 species of trees, along with numerous species of birds, squirrels, and lizards. Some of the trees hold particular value in Balinese ritual.

The Pura Dalem, Ubud Monkey Forest

The biggest structure in the Sacred Monkey Forest is Padangtegal’s pura dalem, or temple of death, on the western section of the forest. The pura dalem is where death-related rites of passage in Balinese culture take place.

The Monkey Forest’s pura dalem is a perfect representative of its type: a walled compound with a candi korung (covered gate), a kulkul (wooden bell) tower, and a bale (pavilion) for important ceremonials and meetings. An adjacent pura prajapati (cremation temple) serves as a venue for the ngaben cremation ceremony (More info here: Hindu Rites & Rituals – Death & Funeral.)

Near the pura prajapati, you’ll find a clearing dotted with headstones. In Balinese tradition, the dead are buried while the family saves money for the expensive ngaben ceremonial; once the family is ready for the ngaben, the body is exhumed for cremation. Years may pass between one’s death and final purification through ngaben, which allows the spirit of the dead to join the upper world.

Most visitors won’t be allowed inside the main temple; you can observe any ceremonies from a respectful distance.

For proper behavior within range of a Balinese holy site, read our etiquette tips for travelers in Bali, Indonesia.

The Kulkul at the Pura Dalem, Ubud Monkey Forest

The wooden bell, or kulkul, is hung from a tower within the pura dalem. The kulkul is used to summon villagers for important meetings or ceremonies. The surrounding base is intricately carved, the kulkul is carved from hardwood, and the bell’s striker is carved into the shape of a phallus. The kulkul’s position at the top of a tower ensures that its tone is heard throughout the village.

No two kulkul sound the same. As different village organizations have their own kulkul, villagers soon learn to distinguish the sound of one kulkul from another. Different patterns of rhythm, called tabuh, transmit different messages to villagers within earshot – one pattern may announce the beginning of a ngaben ceremony, while another may call villagers for a meeting at the nearby bale.

A Look Inside the Pura Dalem, Ubud Monkey Forest

The image above is a view of the pura dalem’s forecourt, as seen from the gate of the temple. The bale banjar (meeting pavilion) is visible to the right. The bale kulkul is not visible in this shot. Also not visible: the inner sanctum, or bagian utama mandala, that safeguards a centuries-old Hindu relic in the form of a lingga-yoni.

The temple site dates back to the 1400s, according to testimonies in selected lontar (Balinese holy books). The temple structure itself, though, is only a few years old, despite the ancient look imparted by the accumulated moss and plant growth. Temples in Bali are built from sandstone by skilled artisans; this material doesn’t last long, and must be constantly maintained or replaced by the village.

For more information on the many places of worship on the island, read our guide to Bali’s temples.

The Statues Surrounding the Pura Dalem

The pura dalem and nearby structures are guarded by dozens of statues, some rather horrific in aspect. The presence of both heroic and demonic figures in the Monkey Forest’s statuary shows the Balinese preoccupation with balance: angelic and demonic spirits, not to mention the gods, are seen as two sides of the same overarching deity, Sang Hyang Widi Wasa, and must be treated with respect.

The Sly, Sticky-Fingered Monkeys of the Ubud Monkey Forest

The crab-eating macaques (Macaca fascicularis) that inhabit the Ubud Monkey Forest number in the hundreds, and are not the slightest bit afraid of humans.

The villagers of Padangtegal feed the monkeys daily, but that hasn’t stopped the monkeys from picking on the tourists who visit their forest. The macaques are very aggressive, and will steal anything that looks shiny or edible.

The last time your guide visited the Ubud Monkey Forest, a group of schoolkids were also there as part of a field trip – easy pickings for these smart little primates. A group of monkeys (pictured above) ganged up on one schoolkid, stole his lunch bag, scattered the contents on the forest floor, and made off with the goods. A little while later, your guide saw a monkey deftly extract a water bottle from a schoolgirl’s bag, unscrew the top, and drink its contents.

So don’t assume these monkeys are tame: they are very wild, and will attack if provoked. Keep any shiny, nickable objects like sunglasses, cameras, and jewelry out of reach and/or hidden. Do not smile at the monkeys – for macaques, showing your teeth is an aggressive act. Do not feed the monkeys; they get enough food from the villagers. Some vendors will try to sell you fruit to give to the monkeys; do not humor them.

For more information on dealing with the Monkey Forest’s sly primates, read our article on how to avoid monkey bites and attacks.

The Dragon Bridge Crossing the Monkey Forest Stream

As you head west of the pura dalem, you’ll come to a stair/bridge that descends to a sacred bathing temple. The bridge – flanked by curvy naga dragons – crosses a gorge and cuts through the roots of a banyan tree.

Bathing temple, Ubud Monkey Forest

At the end of the naga bridge, you’ll find a bathing temple that the villagers use for sacred purification rituals. The bathing pool is fed by a nearby stream.

The villagers of Padangtegal believe the waters from the bathing temple have “special magic or curative properties” (source), a manifestation of the Balinese belief in the holiness of upstream water. Other spring or upstream water sources that have become holy bathing sites in their own right include Tirta Gangga and Tirta Empul

For more on these other sacred bathing places, see our articles on Places to See in East Bali and Top Ten Must-See Temples in Bali.

Getting Out of Ubud Monkey Forest

Retrace your steps and go north and uphill; you’ll soon find yourself exiting the Ubud Monkey Forest. As mentioned earlier, the gate to the Ubud Monkey Forest is located on a bend of Jalan Monkey Forest; walk up the northern bend, and you’ll make your way to the main Ubud square, about 0.75 miles uphill, while walking past a good number of shops, hostels, taxi stands, and restaurants.

If you take the bend that heads east, you’ll find yourself in a pleasant, tree-shaded lane lined with restaurants and odd little monkey statues. Your guide heartily recommends an after-forest chow break at Warung Semesta (coordinates: 8°31’5.7504″S, 115°15’45.0972″E, location on Google Maps), which serves organic food while overlooking Jalan Monkey Forest. The road’s southernmost point terminates at Jalan Hanoman.

To find a place to stay near the Monkey Forest, check out our lists of Ubud Hotels and Villas and Budget Hotels & Homestays in Ubud, Bali.

For other activities in the area, read our list of 10 things to do in Ubud.

Tour of Ubud's Sacred Monkey Forest, Bali